{"id":2769,"date":"2018-01-28T23:22:17","date_gmt":"2018-01-28T22:22:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/?p=2769"},"modified":"2018-01-30T19:07:24","modified_gmt":"2018-01-30T18:07:24","slug":"jour-213-san-pedro-de-atacama-lagunas-altiplanicas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/2018\/01\/28\/jour-213-san-pedro-de-atacama-lagunas-altiplanicas\/","title":{"rendered":"Jour 213 \u2013 San Pedro de Atacama, \u00ab Lagunas Altiplanicas \u00bb"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Le r\u00e9veil sonne t\u00f4t, mais on passe nous chercher \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4tel directement, facile\u00a0! Nous retrouvons Pierre et M\u00e9lanie rencontr\u00e9s hier. Notre guide du jour est une fran\u00e7aise qui s\u2019appelle Pauline, notre chauffeur lui est chilien s\u2019appelle Daniel. Notre premier arr\u00eat se fait \u00e0 la Laguna Chaxa, en plein milieu du d\u00e9sert de sel. Le d\u00e9sert de sel d\u2019Atacama a une conception diff\u00e9rente de celui d\u2019Argentine ou d\u2019Uyuni. Ici, pas de grande \u00e9tendue blanche, mais un m\u00e9lange de sel et d\u2019argile \u00e0 perte de vue. Le r\u00e9seau de rivi\u00e8res souterraines descendant de la cordill\u00e8re des Andes ressort ici par \u00e9vaporation en remontant gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 la chaleur intense du d\u00e9sert, et fait aussi remonter le sel contenu dans le sol en m\u00eame temps (en gros). Le fait que l\u2019endroit re\u00e7oive tr\u00e8s peu de pluie (quand m\u00eame un peu plus que la vall\u00e9e de la lune, mais moins qu\u2019en altitude \u00e0 quelques kilom\u00e8tres) est d\u00fb au fait que la zone est coinc\u00e9e entre plusieurs cordill\u00e8res, comme nous l\u2019avons appris hier. L\u2019eau qui ressort cr\u00e9e des lagunes peu profondes mais qui regorgent de micro-organismes, gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 tous les min\u00e9raux transport\u00e9s. Ces derniers sont le repas favori des flamants roses, qui sont ici par dizaines, et nous offrent de magnifiques vols. Nous apprenons aussi par l\u2019occasion que les flamants ne sont pas roses \u00e0 la base, mais prennent leur couleur car les micro-organismes qu\u2019ils mangent sont pleins de b\u00eata-carot\u00e8ne. Comme quoi l\u2019histoire des carottes n\u2019est pas compl\u00e8tement fausse, en tout cas les flamants roses eux le confirment.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Nous ne sommes pas encore mont\u00e9s en altitude, ce sera le cas de notre seconde \u00e9tape, nous rejoignons deux lagunes au pied de deux volcans \u00e0 4200 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude. Nous apprenons \u00e0 cette occasion que les volcans de la cordill\u00e8re des Andes, en plus d\u2019\u00eatre nombreux sont encore tr\u00e8s actifs. La laguna Miscanti et la laguna Mi\u00f1iques (du nom des volcans) n\u2019en formaient qu\u2019une seule avant d\u2019\u00eatre s\u00e9par\u00e9es par une coul\u00e9e de lave, il y a plusieurs millions d\u2019ann\u00e9e bien s\u00fbr. Cependant, elles communiquent encore en souterrain. A cette altitude, il y a moins de s\u00e9cheresse et la v\u00e9g\u00e9tation peut reprendre ses droits. En plus des flamants roses qui montent aussi ici, il y a pas mal d\u2019autres esp\u00e8ces d\u2019oiseaux. Nous retrouvons aussi nos fameuses vigognes qui mangent tranquillement leurs herbes favorites. Le programme d\u2019origine a ensuite \u00e9t\u00e9 chang\u00e9 car un des sites est maintenant interdit (car des touristes n\u2019ont pas su respecter les r\u00e8gles \u00e9l\u00e9mentaires et ont souill\u00e9 les terres ancestrales des am\u00e9rindiens). Nous faisons un bref arr\u00eat dans un petit village de 100 \u00e2mes install\u00e9 dans une oasis, en visitant l\u2019\u00e9glise (presque) de l\u2019\u00e9poque coloniale espagnole, et en d\u00e9couvrant les cultures maraich\u00e8res pratiqu\u00e9es ici. Nous nous rendons ensuite au village de Talabre, point de d\u00e9part d\u2019une marche dans une sorte de canyon qui regorge de p\u00e9troglyphes dat\u00e9s d\u2019il y a 3500 ans. Les gravures de lamas sont celles qui reviennent le plus, mais il y a aussi des gravures d\u2019homme, de suris (les autruches locales, nous en avons d\u2019ailleurs aper\u00e7u une vraie le matin), les zorros (renard) ou des pumas (tr\u00e8s durs \u00e0 voir \u00e0 priori\u00a0!). La visite de ce lieu a \u00e9t\u00e9 programm\u00e9e en remplacement, et notre guide est bien emb\u00eat\u00e9e car elle-m\u00eame ne l\u2019a jamais faite, nous d\u00e9couvrons tous ensemble l\u2019endroit\u00a0! Nous ne trainons pas trop car nous avons pris pas mal de retard dans le programme, et l\u2019apr\u00e8s midi est bien entam\u00e9, nous sommes d\u2019ailleurs un peu tous tiraill\u00e9s par la faim.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Nous faisons une pause d\u00e9jeuner en fin de marche, agr\u00e9ablement install\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019ombre en nous servant dans le petit buffet qu\u2019a install\u00e9 notre chauffeur Daniel pendant que nous marchions. La derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape sera un dernier petit village install\u00e9 dans une oasis. Ici il y a plein de cultures, et m\u00eame des vignes. Malheureusement, nous n\u2019avons pas trop de temps pour en profiter car l\u2019horaire de retour doit \u00eatre respect\u00e9, des gens du groupe ont un autre transport \u00e0 prendre. De retour \u00e0 San Pedro, nous retournons nous reposer \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4tel avant le diner. Nous n\u2019allons pas trop trainer ce soir, la journ\u00e9e \u00e0 \u00e9t\u00e9 longue, et celle de demain va commencer tr\u00e8s t\u00f4t. La journ\u00e9e a encore \u00e9t\u00e9 riche en beaux paysages et informations sur la r\u00e9gion, la faune, la flore, ou m\u00eame l\u2019histoire. Nous en avons pris plein la vue, c\u2019est certain\u00a0!<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-2761\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_091925.jpg?resize=525%2C394&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_091925.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_091925.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_091925.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_091925.jpg?w=1575&amp;ssl=1 1575w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2771\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7556.jpg?resize=525%2C394&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7556.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7556.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7556.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7556.jpg?w=1575&amp;ssl=1 1575w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-2762\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_090929.jpg?resize=525%2C394&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_090929.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_090929.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_090929.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_090929.jpg?w=1575&amp;ssl=1 1575w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2763\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7565.jpg?resize=525%2C394&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7565.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7565.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7565.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7565.jpg?w=1575&amp;ssl=1 1575w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2764\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7576.jpg?resize=525%2C394&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7576.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7576.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7576.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/GOPR7576.jpg?w=1575&amp;ssl=1 1575w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-2765\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_131119.jpg?resize=525%2C394&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_131119.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_131119.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_131119.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_131119.jpg?w=1575&amp;ssl=1 1575w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-2766\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181840.jpg?resize=525%2C525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181840.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181840.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181840.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181840.jpg?resize=768%2C768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181840.jpg?resize=100%2C100&amp;ssl=1 100w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181840.jpg?w=1564&amp;ssl=1 1564w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-2767\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181917.jpg?resize=525%2C525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181917.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181917.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181917.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181917.jpg?resize=768%2C768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181917.jpg?resize=100%2C100&amp;ssl=1 100w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_181917.jpg?w=1564&amp;ssl=1 1564w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-2768\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_182021.jpg?resize=525%2C525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_182021.jpg?resize=1024%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_182021.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_182021.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_182021.jpg?resize=768%2C768&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_182021.jpg?resize=100%2C100&amp;ssl=1 100w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_182021.jpg?w=1564&amp;ssl=1 1564w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Le r\u00e9veil sonne t\u00f4t, mais on passe nous chercher \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4tel directement, facile\u00a0! Nous retrouvons Pierre et M\u00e9lanie rencontr\u00e9s hier. Notre guide du jour est une fran\u00e7aise qui s\u2019appelle Pauline, notre chauffeur lui est chilien s\u2019appelle Daniel. Notre premier arr\u00eat se fait \u00e0 la Laguna Chaxa, en plein milieu du d\u00e9sert de sel. Le d\u00e9sert &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/2018\/01\/28\/jour-213-san-pedro-de-atacama-lagunas-altiplanicas\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continuer la lecture<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> de &laquo;&nbsp;Jour 213 \u2013 San Pedro de Atacama, \u00ab Lagunas Altiplanicas \u00bb&nbsp;&raquo;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2761,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true},"categories":[1],"tags":[23],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/IMG_20180128_091925.jpg?fit=4640%2C3480&ssl=1","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p9YvSX-IF","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2769"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2769"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2769\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2790,"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2769\/revisions\/2790"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2761"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2769"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2769"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carnetdevoyages.xyz\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2769"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}